Wednesday, March 21, 2012

A Unique St. Patty’s Day



Brazilians really know how to do a party right.  I assuming most people already know this since all over the world people associate Brazil with Carnaval.  In fact, if I had to venture a guess I would say that more people know that Brazil celebrates Carnaval than people know that they speak Portuguese and not Spanish.  I was fortunate enough to get invited to a Brazilian university graduation party last Saturday (falling on Saint Patrick’s Day).  Not sure exactly what this would entail, I started asking around.  I was told at these parties people wear prom dresses, there is an unlimited amount of free food and booze, and people dance all night.  I thought these were mere exaggerations; I assure they were not.  The simplest way I can describe a Brazilian university graduation party is a prom, Bar Mitzvah, and wedding rolled into one and, eloquently speaking, on crack.  I’ll try to paint a clearer picture.
The party I went to was thrown in honor of 20 Architecture students.  Each student got to invite 50-70 family members and friends who sat at tables adorned with pictures of the student.  All night waiters weaved through the crowds offering beer, wine, and water, as well as hors d’oeruvres, which consisted of fancy chocolates and mini fried pockets filled with anything from olives to tuna fish.  Later on in the evening an all you can eat buffet was setup for people to serve themselves.  There was also an open bar where you could get vodka with any crushed fresh fruit they had available, among other drinks.

Around midnight dancers in traditional Carnaval dress gave a show.  After they called students (individually or in small groups) on to the stage to perform a short choreographed dance on stage.  It seems every Brazilian has the art of dancing down.  I am convinced that they can do any dance, to any music, under any circumstance.  While the bands were playing I witnessed people dancing samba, forro, and what I consider Brazilian versions of the YMCA and the Hokey Pokey.  When the DJ played popular music from the U.S. and the U.K. Brazilians stood in circles and danced “Gringo” style (this was the only dance I felt confident enough to partake in).  Fulbright strongly promotes the sharing of cultures.  As far as dance goes, I think this year will be a one-way street.  What can I possibly teach these people who I must assume know everything about every type of boogie?  On second thought, I didn’t see anyone doing the “shopping cart” or the “sprinkler” so maybe I still have something to offer.





Tuesday, March 13, 2012

Portoñol & The Nuances Of The Portuguese Language

           According to an article in The Economist, Brazilian Portuguese is the paramount language to learn.  Check it out at: http://moreintelligentlife.com/content/ideas/helen-joyce/brazilian-portuguese-best-language
The article explains that Brazilian Portuguese is great because “If you speak Spanish, French or Italian, you’ll find half the work is already done.”  This is actually fairly accurate.  I have never taken a Portuguese class.  The most “studying” I have done is completing the first disc of Rosetta Stone.  However, because of my Spanish skills I find that I can understand a lot of what people say.  People here say they speak “portoñol,” a combination of Portuguese and Spanish.  Right now mine is pretty heavy on the “ñol” and not so much on the “porto,” but hey it’s all a process.  Reading tends to be the easiest for me, though there are, of course, certain traps one must be careful to avoid.  For instance, at the airport I saw plastered on the side of a plane “No Brasil, No Mundo.”  Which to a Spanish speaker makes Brazilians appear rather conceited, translating in Spanish to “No Brazil, No world.”  In reality the advertisement says “In Brazil, In The World,” referring to the company for which it was advertising.
If you want to fake your way through the language rather than adding an “o” to the end of a word like most people do with Spanglish in Portoñol you add a hard “e.”  It’s funny because many of the stores and bars here have English names but they are pronounced in Portuguese.  For example there is a bar here called Coconut.  They pronounce this “coco-nutch-eee.”  Why they don’t simply name the bar Coco which is coconut in Portuguese, I am not sure.  Perhaps places appear more chic when given a name in a foreign language, though the names rarely make sense.  I was walking the other day and I saw a store called Container underneath the name it claimed it was an “Ecology Store.”  This is apparently a clothing store; the mannequins in the window were sporting overpriced Abercrombie & Fitch shirts.  I walked away very confused and wishing I had had my camera.  
Additionally, the article in The Economist made me laugh when it claimed that Brazilians “are friendly, and shameless white liars. You’ll be told ‘Your Portuguese is wonderful!’ many times before it is true.”  I’ll keep you updated as to whether I find this to be true.

Sunday, March 4, 2012

Living it up in the "São Paulo Embassy"

Back in the land of
             Palm Trees
Upon arriving at the airport in Maceió two professors came to pick me up.  The university is near the airport and as they had class in the evening we went to the mall to grab a bite to eat before heading back to the university, where I sat in on two beginner English classes.  Besides the onslaught of mosquitoes in the classroom, it was a great experience.  The students were well behaved and eager to learn.  The university is the only public on in the area.  In Brazil public universities are better than private ones.  Because public universities are free, generally only students who can’t get into the public school go to private colleges.  
1 of the 5 pets I currently live with

I am currently staying with two professors from the English department, as well as two cats and three dogs, all of who are incredibly sweet.  The professors are from São Paulo and so are many of the professors that I have met from the university.  Thus far I have not really experienced the true coastal culture since most of the professors have been here for less than two years and still hold true to their Paulista roots.  In fact, the guys I am staying with call their apartment the “São Paulo Embassy” and another professor gets the newspaper from São Paulo sent to her rather than reading the local paper.  Though they tend to miss their home city as far as the accent and accessibility to various foods, theater, and so forth, they all agree that the beaches in Maceió more than make up for it (also it doesn’t hurt that there is way less traffic and cost of living is cheaper). 
Cocos!
Right now I live a mere few blocks from a gorgeous beach and I’m looking to rent an apartment within walking distance from the beach.  Every Sunday the main road by the beach is closed so people can walk, run, and ride their bikes in the street.  You can stop at a restaurant, bar, or one of the many stands to buy a coconut for a dollar.  Another common treat is tapioca.  Tapioca is made from Cassava and when prepared it takes a crepe-like form.  In fact they treat it very much like a crepe, you can get it stuffed with everything from chicken to Nutella.  No matter if you choose sweet or salty the little pockets come standard with cheese and coconut and they all (to my knowledge) are delicious (though I may need to do some more tasty research). 

I feel like all I have done so far in this country is eat.  On Friday I went to the Casa de Cultura, which offers English classes to university students as well as community members.  In addition to the university I will be assisting in classes there and giving lessons on American culture.  On Friday I went to a meeting and met a bunch of the English professors.  During a 2-hour meeting, I realized that it is not unique to Colombia for teachers to think whoever is talking loudest and the most will come out on top (though to be fair I could not understand 90% of what was going on in what I believe was a heated Portuguese debate as to what type of questions should be put on student exams).  After the meeting we went into the teachers room to celebrate some late February birthdays; or as one professor put it, I picked the very best day to visit the Casa de Cultural.  Stuffed with sandwiches, cake, and the ever popular soft drink, Guarana, I was introduced to some other professors in the Spanish department (yay for more people I can communicate with).  All of the professors at the university and Casa de Cultural have been so welcoming and their English is awesome.  I am looking forward to working with these great people at both institutions.



Celebrating Birthdays at Casa de Cultura
Eating some of the yummy food Paulo prepared for lunch



Saturday, March 3, 2012

Orientation


Judging by what little I know of Brazil (which is mostly the inside of my hotel in São Paulo) I can tell this country is going to be confusing.  How? Well for starters my room number at the hotel is 214 which means I’m on the 11th floor.  While my friends in 138, for example, are on the third floor.   Also each hotel room comes with a kitchen equipped with a mini fridge, microwave, and stove.  However, there are no pots or pans.  In fact, there are no dishes or cutlery in general; I couldn’t even find a fork. So based on the hotel this year should provide some pretty hilarious and hopefully not too embarrassing mix-ups. 
Besides the mixed signals of the façade of the kitchen and bizarre layout, the hotel is actually quite nice.  It is a trendy area of the city.  During orientation we had sessions all morning and afternoon, allowing us to explore local cafes, restaurants, and bars in the evening.  It also presented the opportunity to know my fellow 30 Fulbrighters. 
Brazil ETA Fulbrighters and Staff 2012
Whether I was hanging out by the pool, dancing it up Gringo style at the clubs, or just walking the streets of São Paulo, I had a wonderful time getting to know these inspiring individuals.  Five days after arriving in Brazil and many great conversations later we said our goodbyes, heading off to our respective sites.  I will be the only Fulbrighter in Maceio but I know I can always call on someone if a need to talk to an American friend in the country. 
Above: Lunch at the Municipal Market in São Paulo
Below: Copious amounts of my favorite foods at the market: Wine, Fruit, & Cheese!