Some Maceió History

There’s a river that runs through Maceió which is referred to as Salgadinho or “Little Salty.” I of course remember this river from when I lived in Maceió in 2012. I remember hurrying across the intersection that stretches above the river so I would not get stranded at the red light and be forced to breathe in the horrible stench until the light turned green again. Upon returning to Maceió, I’m saddened to report that since 2012, the river has only gotten more polluted.

Though Salgadinho has not always been like this. In fact, the river used to be clean, fresh water and the neighborhoods surrounding it were where the most prosperous folks lived up until the 1980s.

About 15 years ago when Salgadinho was on the downswing, local Mayor Kátia Born ran on the campaign that she would clean up the river. In fact, she promised to even take a swim in the body of water. To me Kátia Born, sounds like a character from a James Bond film- which gives hope to the idea that she could accomplish superhuman things- and perhaps others thought so too. In any case enough people voted for her and even believed that she would stay true to her political promise, something that Brazilians will tell you is rare or even impossible. However, she did stay true to her word, or at least some of them. She was unsuccessful in cleaning the river, but she did take a dip.

Rumor has it that she went to the doctors and got every type of shot and vaccine she could prior to her plunge. At that point in time, there were parts of the river that weren’t as polluted, and that naturally is where she entered, standing waist deep in the water with news cameras catching every moment of her daring feat.

Despite her best efforts, Kátia Born did not do enough to reverse the tide of property value around Salgadinho. The wealthy and touristic neighborhoods now include Ponta Verde, Pajuçara, and Jatiúca- which up until the 1980s were nothing but beaches and some scattered houses. Now they are chock-full of high-rise apartment buildings and about every four blocks there is one in the process of being built, with fancy pictures on the side of the construction site, promising to be the most perfect oasis in town.

The beaches in these towns are beautiful to look at with their emerald green waters and white sand. On the weekend locals and tourists alike flock to these beaches and rent chairs, kick up their feet and enjoy cold beer and snacks that hawkers run up and down the shore selling. While some people swim, it’s common knowledge that the water is polluted, and therefore many prefer to sit on the sidelines rather than enter. Of course, the water is not nearly as bad as Salgadinho, but still this has persuaded many to choose a different weekend destination. The beaches just out of town, as close as a twenty minute drive away are more popular destinations for those who wish to swim and surf in pristine water.

It’s unfortunate to think of the potential and the downfall of Salgadinho. Here’s to hoping that history does not repeat itself. It may be too late for Salgadinho but there is still time to reverse the damage and ensure that generations to come can enjoy the other bodies of water in Maceió. Though, regrettably- as of yet- there is no plan from the local government to stop the pollution.

Salgadinho in the old days (above) and today (below).

Coffee Break

I have to say that my intake of coffee has substantially increased since moving to Brazil. Coffee is so ingrained in the culture that the word for breakfast in Portuguese is café de manha which literally translates to “morning coffee.” Yes there is food at breakfast too but, as the language demonstrates, coffee has an instrumental role.

Though coffee is made in a variety of ways here (including a coffeemaker, a version of the K-cup machine, and, of course, instant coffee) the most common way I have encountered to brew coffee is with a thermos and a funnel. Basically you take a large thermos and place the funnel on top equipped with a filter and coffee grounds. You boil water and when it’s ready slowly pour the hot water in the filter so the mixture drips down until your thermos is filled. Then you simply remove the filter and screw the lid back on the thermos and you have easily dispensable coffee. Plus you have coffee that stays warm through the morning, until you are ready to make another batch.

Because in addition to morning coffee, Brazilians in the Northeast often have afternoon coffee as well. This is like the British equivalent to tea time. Though someone may ask you if you want coffee around 6pm they are not only asking about café. If you decline the offer, you may be off to bed without dinner. Afternoon coffee implies food and in many homes it takes the place of dinner. Most commonly crackers, bread, cheese, butter, deli meat, cakes, fruit, are served for this light supper.

While I have trouble drinking coffee past 4pm and still having a decent night’s sleep, Brazilians seem to be able to drink coffee at any hour. In fact, I’ve had several Brazilians tell me that they drink coffee at night before they go to bed to help them sleep. Of course, they drink café com leite or coffee with milk because black coffee is the only potential drink that could truly keep them up at night.

Should you ever find yourself at a Brazilian conference or seminar you may be lucky enough to experience a “coffee break.” The English phrase is used in lieu of any Portuguese phrasing. And rather than the several short breaks I am accustomed to, there is usually just one longer coffee break which again includes food. It is similar to afternoon coffee you would find at someone’s home but on a much larger scale. Though it is advisable to not dillydally on your way to the line for refreshments as sometimes they run out of snacks or only have the mysterious-looking deli meats by the time it’s your turn to stock your plate.

New Years in Brazil

2016 marks my first New Year’s celebration in Brazil. Actually, it was my first time ringing in the New Year without having to bundle up in a winter coat so I thought I would memorialize it by writing a post about my experience.

Over the past month I have learned that securing the right outfit for New Year’s in Brazil is a big deal. All through December friends and family will ask if you bought your outfit and shops promote almost exclusively white clothes in their display windows. This is because in Brazil colors represent different wishes for the upcoming year. White represents peace and by far it is the most popular choice. But there are other options as well: Yellow= Money; Red= Love; Blue= Health; and Green= Hope. Of course you can go with my approach and wear a multi-colored dress. Looks like 2016 will be a healthy, hopeful, wealthy, and peaceful year for me!

Different from my experience in the U.S., New Years in Brazil is more commonly celebrated with family, rather than friends. In this sense it is more similar to an American Christmas or Thanksgiving. Families celebrate together with lots of food (typical meals include turkey or ham) and drinks. The meal and the party start late (ours started after 11pm) and similar to the U.S. the champagne toasts and fireworks commence at midnight.

Naturally in a country as big and diverse as Brazil people celebrate in vastly different ways and I am speaking mostly from my observations and experiences in 2016. I celebrated at a family party in a small beach town in Northeast Brazil called São Miguel dos Milagres. The party was simple but fun and filled with food, laughter, and loud music- as people put speakers on their front porches and dance all night long. Those who are up for it go to the beach to catch the sunrise or jump in the sea.

However, even in this same beach town with a population of less than 7,000, people celebrate in completely different ways. For the past three years there has been an influx of wealthy Brazilians who travel from all over the country to party in São Miguel dos Milagres. There are thousands of tickets to the party but they sell out fast, which is saying a lot considering the party costs $1,000 (USD) just to enter. The event lasts several days and nights, and it is quite different from the family affair. This celebration is shared with friends and features electronic music, alcohol, and celebrities. Rumor has it Rodrigo Santoro (the hunk from the film Love Actually) was in attendance this year.

Unfortunately, I did not have the opportunity to strike up a conversation with Rodrigo but the same company that throws the New Year’s party is planning a Carnival party for the first time this year in São Miguel dos Milagres- so we will see who that attracts in February.