Friday, March 25, 2016

Some Maceió History

There’s a river that runs through Maceió which is referred to as Salgadinho or “Little Salty.” I of course remember this river from when I lived in Maceió in 2012. I remember hurrying across the intersection that stretches above the river so I would not get stranded at the red light and be forced to breathe in the horrible stench until the light turned green again. Upon returning to Maceió, I’m saddened to report that since 2012, the river has only gotten more polluted.

Though Salgadinho has not always been like this. In fact, the river used to be clean, fresh water and the neighborhoods surrounding it were where the most prosperous folks lived up until the 1980s.

About 15 years ago when Salgadinho was on the downswing, local Mayor Kátia Born ran on the campaign that she would clean up the river. In fact, she promised to even take a swim in the body of water. To me Kátia Born, sounds like a character from a James Bond film- which gives hope to the idea that she could accomplish superhuman things- and perhaps others thought so too. In any case enough people voted for her and even believed that she would stay true to her political promise, something that Brazilians will tell you is rare or even impossible. However, she did stay true to her word, or at least some of them. She was unsuccessful in cleaning the river, but she did take a dip.

Rumor has it that she went to the doctors and got every type of shot and vaccine she could prior to her plunge. At that point in time, there were parts of the river that weren’t as polluted, and that naturally is where she entered, standing waist deep in the water with news cameras catching every moment of her daring feat.

Despite her best efforts, Kátia Born did not do enough to reverse the tide of property value around Salgadinho. The wealthy and touristic neighborhoods now include Ponta Verde, Pajuçara, and Jatiúca- which up until the 1980s were nothing but beaches and some scattered houses. Now they are chock-full of high-rise apartment buildings and about every four blocks there is one in the process of being built, with fancy pictures on the side of the construction site, promising to be the most perfect oasis in town.

The beaches in these towns are beautiful to look at with their emerald green waters and white sand. On the weekend locals and tourists alike flock to these beaches and rent chairs, kick up their feet and enjoy cold beer and snacks that hawkers run up and down the shore selling. While some people swim, it’s common knowledge that the water is polluted, and therefore many prefer to sit on the sidelines rather than enter. Of course, the water is not nearly as bad as Salgadinho, but still this has persuaded many to choose a different weekend destination. The beaches just out of town, as close as a twenty minute drive away are more popular destinations for those who wish to swim and surf in pristine water.


It’s unfortunate to think of the potential and the downfall of Salgadinho. Here’s to hoping that history does not repeat itself. It may be too late for Salgadinho but there is still time to reverse the damage and ensure that generations to come can enjoy the other bodies of water in Maceió. Though, regrettably- as of yet- there is no plan from the local government to stop the pollution.


Salgadinho in the old days (above) and today (below).