June Parties

However you want to call it, São João, Festas Juninas, or June Parties are predominantly celebrated in the Northeast of Brazil.  These originally were celebrated to honor 3 saints, Saint Anthony, Saint John (São João literally means St. John), and Saint Peter. The Saint days are June 13^th, 24^th, and 29^th, respectively.  So as Brazilians love to point out, these days are just far enough apart from each other that it is justifiable to celebrate the entire month.

St. John is the biggest party day; which is probably why all the festivals are often referred to as São João.  However, by and large St. Anthony is the one I’ve heard the most about.  St. Anthony is the matchmaker, and his holy day is the day after Brazilian Valentine’s Day.  Girls will often get little statues of St. Anthony to perform certain rituals.  Generally in their teenage years girls will torture the saint so that he will bring them a husband.  There are several methods to torture, including but not limited to leaving St. Anthony outside all night in the cold, turning him on his head, or even dunking him in water while threatening to drown him if they do not get their desired results.  I guess most holidays don’t involve waterboarding a saint, but then again the Northeast of Brazil isn’t like most places.

Though these Saint-day celebrations may not be as internationally well-known as Brazilian Carnaval, in the Northeast they are nearly as popular.  While both Carnaval and São João share the main idea (partying), the customs are quite different.  My intention is to give an overview of the basics: clothes, food, music, and dance so that if you ever find yourself lucky enough to be in attendance at one of these shindigs you’ll be prepared.

What’s the dress code?  The answer may surprise you; it’s flannel.  This whole month people everywhere I go, everyone I see, is wearing flannel.  From my apartment building receptionist, to university students, to children on the beach, flannel is in.  For the complete ensemble one should technically wear jeans, boots, and a cowboy hat.   Some girls will even put their hair in two braids or simply buy a hat with those already in place.

Of course with any celebration, food is of the up-most importance.  The menu for São João is like an Iron Chef competition in which the secret ingredient is corn.  People make everything from corn bread, to corn cake and pudding, and naturally they eat old-fashioned corn on the cob.  It is very common for people to make bonfires.  They make in front of their house right in the street.  Many will even roast corn in their street bonfire.  Like any party alcohol is also on the menu.  Most likely beer or cachaça (liquor from sugarcane) will be served, though I don’t think anyone is too picky when it comes to this.   

Usually at parties there is at least one live band playing Farol, music typical of the Northeast.  The type of Farol played during June parties is a bit more country bumpkin style.  In any other circumstances Northeasterners do a sexy dance in pairs to Farol (in other parts of the country the dance involves some spins and twirls, here its is more bumping and grinding).  Of course a special occasion means a special type of dance.  Though at parties people still dance in pairs to Farol throughout the month of June there are intense square-dancing competitions.
 

Besides hearing Farol music all the time, the month of June sounds like a battlefield thanks to the overwhelming supply of fireworks.  Impromptu stands appear out of thin air to sell fireworks (similar to U.S. around the 4^th of July).  Everyone from little kids to grandparents get their kicks setting off Roman candles and playing with sparklers.  Don’t get me wrong; I love seeing fireworks.  But I don’t have a great appreciation for hearing fireworks at all hours of the day.  I’m not sure why but Brazilians love to set off fireworks in the morning and early afternoon.  I guess some things this year will remain a mystery, regardless I hope I gave you a idea as to what you may be in for if you come to Northeast Brazil in June.  I do recommend that you come check it out for yourself.