Let’s Talk About Sex, Brazil

Even the kids animated movie Rio portrays women lying on the beach with itsy bitsy bikinis and Barbie like proportions.  Aside from soccer, internationally Brazilian culture is often chalked up to Carnaval, beauty pageants, and flawless models.  One only has to compare Google Image searches of “women in Brazil” and “women in the U.S.”  The Brazilian search, results in half of the images of women in bikinis, while results for American women primarily show female athletes.  But besides Google Image results and international perceptions are Brazil and the U.S. all that different?

There is a stereotype (one could call it a myth or even hope) in the U.S. that Brazilians are the most beautiful people in the world.  Talking about stereotypes with students I discovered that there are similar ideas about Americans.  Many Brazilians believe that Americans are the sexiest people; this of course contrasts the competing stereotype that Americans always eat McDonalds and everyone in the U.S. is majorly obese.  I’d like to take a closer look at the first theory.  Perhaps this is the whole “the grass is greener on the other side” concept at play.  Or perhaps Americans have Hollywood to thank for formalizing and perpetuating stereotypes.  Wealth, drugs, violence, and sex are common (if not exclusive) themes in American film.  Television is not much better.  Think reality shows, think WB shows in which impeccable 27 year olds represent high school seniors, think MTV.  These movies, television shows, and music videos are exported all over the world and are especially popular in Brazil. 

Now turning to Brazilian media, which is not as well known in the U.S. but just as sexual.  I was recently watching a Brazilian game show in which 3 high school classes competed to win a trip to Mexico (comparable to a senior year Spring Break trip).  The students had to complete a number of challenges.  The first of which was trivia.  Each team representative would answer a question and if he/she got it correct a model would take off a piece of clothing.  The idea was that the model was a lifeguard and the first team to answer enough questions so that their model stripped down to just a bikini would move onto the next challenge.

In the late 90’s two television competitions took Brazil by storm.  These challenges were known as na boqhiña da garrafa (the bottle dance) and banheira do Gugu (Gugu’s bathtub).  The first of which was exactly what it sounds like, mostly naked women competed each week to see who could shake their ass best over a bottle.  The bathtub contest was held on show hosted by Gugu.  It involved a man and a woman both in revealing swimsuits in a Jacuzzi.  The man’s objective was to find the soap that was in the tub, while the woman’s objective was to stop him.  One can only imagine what that would lead to.  Actually you don’t have to leave it up to your imagination, you can check out some examples of a bottle dance performance and a bathtub contest on YouTube at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kCAWMreasJI and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wzk9BOkIYiE respectively.     

Let’s be honest, sex sells; it always has and will.  Sure the amount of skin shown varies by time, place, and what the media can get away with, but it’s always present.  Overall, I think the U.S. and Brazil are a lot more similar than people would like to believe.  Despite the overly sexualized media, Brazilians aren’t the sex-crazed people that the international community may dream up.  And no, universities in the U.S. are not like American Pie.  The only major divergence I’ve noticed in Brazilian and American thought is that Brazilians are convinced that the majority of foods in the pyramid are aphrodisiacs.  According to Brazilians, everything from birds’ eggs, to peanuts, certain fruits, and every type of shellfish will pump up your sex drive. 

As for whether Brazilians or Americans are more beautiful, I guess “a beleza está nos olhos de quem vê.” The Portuguese equivalent to the proverb “beauty is in the eye of the beholder.”

June Parties

However you want to call it, São João, Festas Juninas, or June Parties are predominantly celebrated in the Northeast of Brazil.  These originally were celebrated to honor 3 saints, Saint Anthony, Saint John (São João literally means St. John), and Saint Peter. The Saint days are June 13^th, 24^th, and 29^th, respectively.  So as Brazilians love to point out, these days are just far enough apart from each other that it is justifiable to celebrate the entire month.

St. John is the biggest party day; which is probably why all the festivals are often referred to as São João.  However, by and large St. Anthony is the one I’ve heard the most about.  St. Anthony is the matchmaker, and his holy day is the day after Brazilian Valentine’s Day.  Girls will often get little statues of St. Anthony to perform certain rituals.  Generally in their teenage years girls will torture the saint so that he will bring them a husband.  There are several methods to torture, including but not limited to leaving St. Anthony outside all night in the cold, turning him on his head, or even dunking him in water while threatening to drown him if they do not get their desired results.  I guess most holidays don’t involve waterboarding a saint, but then again the Northeast of Brazil isn’t like most places.

Though these Saint-day celebrations may not be as internationally well-known as Brazilian Carnaval, in the Northeast they are nearly as popular.  While both Carnaval and São João share the main idea (partying), the customs are quite different.  My intention is to give an overview of the basics: clothes, food, music, and dance so that if you ever find yourself lucky enough to be in attendance at one of these shindigs you’ll be prepared.

What’s the dress code?  The answer may surprise you; it’s flannel.  This whole month people everywhere I go, everyone I see, is wearing flannel.  From my apartment building receptionist, to university students, to children on the beach, flannel is in.  For the complete ensemble one should technically wear jeans, boots, and a cowboy hat.   Some girls will even put their hair in two braids or simply buy a hat with those already in place.

Of course with any celebration, food is of the up-most importance.  The menu for São João is like an Iron Chef competition in which the secret ingredient is corn.  People make everything from corn bread, to corn cake and pudding, and naturally they eat old-fashioned corn on the cob.  It is very common for people to make bonfires.  They make in front of their house right in the street.  Many will even roast corn in their street bonfire.  Like any party alcohol is also on the menu.  Most likely beer or cachaça (liquor from sugarcane) will be served, though I don’t think anyone is too picky when it comes to this.   

Usually at parties there is at least one live band playing Farol, music typical of the Northeast.  The type of Farol played during June parties is a bit more country bumpkin style.  In any other circumstances Northeasterners do a sexy dance in pairs to Farol (in other parts of the country the dance involves some spins and twirls, here its is more bumping and grinding).  Of course a special occasion means a special type of dance.  Though at parties people still dance in pairs to Farol throughout the month of June there are intense square-dancing competitions.
 

Besides hearing Farol music all the time, the month of June sounds like a battlefield thanks to the overwhelming supply of fireworks.  Impromptu stands appear out of thin air to sell fireworks (similar to U.S. around the 4^th of July).  Everyone from little kids to grandparents get their kicks setting off Roman candles and playing with sparklers.  Don’t get me wrong; I love seeing fireworks.  But I don’t have a great appreciation for hearing fireworks at all hours of the day.  I’m not sure why but Brazilians love to set off fireworks in the morning and early afternoon.  I guess some things this year will remain a mystery, regardless I hope I gave you a idea as to what you may be in for if you come to Northeast Brazil in June.  I do recommend that you come check it out for yourself.  

Maceió, a tour through the senses

Obviously over the course of my 9 months in Brazil I would love for all my family and friends to visit.  Unfortunately, that is a little unrealistic so for all of you who won’t get a chance to experience Maceió in all its glory (and misery) this if for you.  This is a sensory tour of my host city.  Although this is still a very limited view from my perspective focusing on the coast (which is the “nice” part of the city as opposed to the interior) I hope it helps you get a better idea of what life is like on the Brazilian coast.

This is what Maceió looks like:

Beaches, I had heard about the beautiful beaches in Maceió and I have to say that I was not disappointed.  Perhaps this is best explained with pictures.

Pollution, The only complaint I have concerning the beaches is the pollution.  “Going Green” hasn’t quite made it to Maceió yet.  I’m usually the only one with a reusable shopping bag at the grocery store, and my apartment building that is home to hundreds of people does not offer a recycling service.  The main river in the city that feeds into the ocean is littered with trash.  Also Maceió is on a slight slant, so especially after it rains the beaches are riddled with plastic bags and candy wrappers.

A sea of bland colored cars, I swear the mayor of Pleasantville himself must have mandated the color scheme allowed for cars. Cars here are almost exclusively black, white, or shades of gray.  Even the taxis are white (yes this makes it harder to discern a taxi, I often wave down white cars).  I actually get excited when I see a car that is painted an actual color, not just a value. 

This is what Maceió smells like:

Fish, you know that pungent and slightly nauseating smell of fresh raw fish.  But it’s oh so delicious once it is prepared!

Too much aftershave, the smell wafts from men walking or even jogging on the beach.  I never thought I would smell someone before I’d see them; I was wrong.  Maybe they’re trying to overpower the smell of fish, one aftershave bottle at a time.

This is what Maceió sounds like:

Maca-shhhheeeeeraaaaaa, men walk through town pushing carts filled with cassava and belt out in a tone-deaf opera voice “macaxeira” the Portuguese word for cassava.   

Caico, Caico is a brand of popsicle here.  I personally have a love-hate relationship with the tasty treats.  On the one hand they are refreshing and cheap (usually 50 cents or $1 on the beach), on the other hand you can never escape the monotony of the recording “Picolé Sorvete Caico.”  Similar to the way they sell macaxeira, people walk around town pushing a Caico cart.  The problem is all of these carts are equipped with speakers that play “Picolé Sorvete Caico” (a slogan advertising the popsicles).  As they push the cart the recording repeats itself every five feet.  I for one find this outrageous I don’t know if Caico sellers have a workers union but they should.  There must be some law against torturing employees in such a cruel way.  I wouldn’t be able to last one day selling Caico, even hearing the recording on the beach, in my apartment, and walking around town drives me crazy. 

Construction, the reason for the sound of construction is twofold.  First off, they are always building new hotels and high-rise apartment buildings.  Sometimes I feel like I live in the computer game SimCity.

The other reason for the construction sound is the influx of a comeback “toy” so to speak.  Now every generation has fads that everyone eventually grows to regret (one example from my generation is the Furby).  The latest trend sweeping Northeast Brazil is a toy with two balls connected by a string.  There really is no way to play or win a game with this, children (and even some adults) simply wave the thing around until the balls collide or hit the pavement creating a loud sound.  As a result, every child sounds like they have their own personal jackhammer.   

            This is what Maceió tastes like:

Fresh fruits and juices, there are so many “exotic” fruits here it’s like Juicy Fruit was doing another ad campaign with freak fruit combinations.   Many of the fruits here don’t exist in the English language.  There is graviola, mangaba, and caja, just to name a few.  But if you type “Brazilian fruit” in Wikipedia you’ll find a list so long it will make your head spin.

All you can eat ice cream, which is a little kid’s dream come true (OK a big kid’s dream as well). Serve-your-own frozen yogurt has recently become all the rage in the U.S.  These shops are very similar to the ice cream parlors here.  Except as opposed to the 10-15 flavors you can choose from in the U.S., Brazilian shops generally have over 90 flavors (Baskin Robbins got nothing on Brazil).  You choose a cup or cone and then fill it up with as many flavors and toppings as you desire.  After you’ve finished your masterpiece you weigh it, pay, and eat your fabulous creation.

This is what Maceió feels like:

Hot, as you may have guessed.  Primarily it feels really freaking hot.  Though there is an invigorating breeze from the sea.

Light drizzle, though this may change now that rainy season is upon us, but up until now rain here has felt more like mist.  Like when you are looking at Niagra Falls from a distance or you’re walking under one of those “mist machines” at Six Flags.

This is what Maceió feels like when you have to go to the grocery store during peak hours. 
                                                     

This is what the grocery store looks like on a Thursday at 11:00 am (the closest you can get to “slow” time)

This is what it feels like on a Friday afternoon and it’s a 4 day weekend (not all that uncommon here).

Humor & Betrayal, the funny side of infidelity

It’s interesting to consider how humor translates across borders with varying cultures and languages.  Many find it reassuring to know that they can deliver a punch line in another country or a language other than their mother tongue. Telling jokes goes beyond simply ordering at a restaurant or finally figuring out the unwritten rules of the bus schedule.  These small victories make you feel a bit less like a tourist, but they do not make you feel like you’ve really assimilated.  However making people laugh (with you and not at you) is truly rewarding.

In the 2.5 months I have spent in Brazil thus far I have come to realize that there are some categories of jokes that are the same here and in the U.S.  For example, wisecracks about dumb blondes, terrifying mother-in-laws, and of course sex, are quite common.  However, there is a whole group of jokes that essentially don’t exist in American humor, cheating.  In Brazil there is a large emphasis on cheating in relationships.  Generally speaking it is very common, especially in the Northeast, for men to cheat on their girlfriends or wives; some even say it is expected.  Women also cheat on their boyfriends or husbands but not as frequently.  When it does happen the poor guy gets hell for it.  They are called cornos and as one Brazilian explained to me “once you’re a corno, you’re always a corno.”

In English we don’t even have a word for this; instead we are required to twist are tongues around and say, “Oh John, his girlfriend cheated on him” or “Susan was cheated on.”  In Brazil they not only have a word for this; they have a gesture too.  It involves raising one’s pinky and pointer finger.  Often Brazilians do this symbol behind someone’s head when they are taking a picture, like Americans do with “bunny ears.”  Beyond the gesture there is also a whole genre of music, Brega, which is dedicated to the subject of betrayal.

When I asked why this is such a common joke, one Brazilian suggested that cheating occurs so regularly that they need to make light of the situation.  Some people have even told me that certain cities and towns are well known for their cheating population; supposedly Arapiraca (the city I wrote about in my last post) is one of these cities.  In some places men who are cornos get together to form a makeshift support group; they listen to Brega, drink a lot, and try to mend their broken hearts (and overcome the humiliation that inevitably comes with their corno status).

Arapiraca (Ah-Rah-Pee-Raka)

This past weekend two fellow students from my graduate class invited me to visit their hometown, Arapiraca.  Arapiraca is the second biggest city in the state of Alagoas with about 250,000 inhabitants.  Not yet enough of a tourist attraction to make it in Lonely Planet; if they did have anything to say about the city I imagine it would sound something like this: Arapiraca possesses that unexplainable small-town charm.  Known for its plazas, many people choose relax on the romantic park benches shaded by vine-covered awnings.  While it is by no means has the draw of a big city, there are some attractions that visitors might want to check out while in town.  For example the Women’s Museum (Memorial Da Mulher), which was largely built in honor of Ceci Cunha, a politician who fought for social justice until she was murdered 14 years ago.  There is also a water park open on weekends with several pools, snack bars, and even some decent waterslides.  At night there are often free concerts in the various town squares.

The students in my graduate class aka my tour guides for the weekend, Rodolfo and Rosangela, are English teachers in Arapiraca.  They thought it would be a good opportunity for their students to meet a native speaker and for me to see a little bit more of Alagoas.  They live in Arapiraca and just drive the two-hour commute (each way) to Maceio 1-2 days a week to pursue their master’s degree.  After our class on Thursday Rodolfo drove me to Arapiraca.  That night I went with him to the institute where he works.  There he acts as a teaching assistant offering extra assistance to students who need it.   The students are all English teachers in the area though most of them rarely speak English.  In their classes they primarily teach grammar.  This is in part due to their fairly basic level of English and in part due to the large unruly class (classes usually average 40-50 students).  In the past English teachers were not required to actually know English.  Thankfully, though this is now starting to change. 

Though to change takes time and this problem is even more evident in Igaci, one of the small towns a mere 15-minute drive from Arapiraca.  Rodolfo’s family lives on a farm there and he is involved in a project to get the English teachers in the area to use more interactive strategies in the classroom.  So they focus on speaking and listening, rather than solely reading and writing.  I met with the English teachers there and many of them spoke limited English and explained that they struggled with speaking and listening as well.  I suggested some resources to help them improve their English and some English teaching strategies that I found successful when I taught in Colombia with my students who primarily had very basic levels of English.  Mainly I encouraged them to speak as much English as they could in and out of the classroom.  I definitely understand the challenges of learning a foreign language (as anyone who has heard me speak Portuguese can attest to), but practice makes perfect, right?

                             My Tour Guides for the Weekend
I also visited the university UNEAL where Rosangela works.   Students from all the different English classes and levels gathered to ask me questions.  Shy at first, after a few minutes, students opened up and asked me a slew of questions.  After almost 2 hours I felt as though I covered every topic imaginable.  I talked about everything from American food, to text message abbreviations, to education in the U.S.  I think I was the first American most of them have met.  It’s quite a daunting task to represent an entire country and culture (which is made of many other cultures) in the span of a few hours.  I tried to emphasize that I am no expert and my knowledge is of course limited to my experiences and my education.  I definitely don’t know everything, even something as seemingly simple as text message abbreviations.  Actually especially text message abbreviations; I think I was one of the last people of my generation to know what ROTFL (rolling on the floor laughing, in case you were wondering).  So this year I have found myself learning about U.S. culture and the English language alongside students. 

 At UNEAL- after the Q&A session the cameras were busted out and after the group shot many students requested individual pictures with me  

Walking on Water, Turning Beer into Water

& other unusual discoveries in Brazil

My intention for this entry is to address the inevitable question, “So what’s different over there?”  (The second intention is to get my family and friends to stop saying “You know Rachel, you haven’t blogged in awhile . . .”  I figure a longer post will buy me more time)  I believe that there are some universal truths; it seems that everywhere in the world children know how to execute the perfect tantrum in a grocery store, and regardless of which city one is living in, they always have a semi-creepy old man neighbor who is never wearing a shirt (though really should be).  Apart from these similarities what is it that I find odd or different about Brazil?  Perhaps I should start by explaining the title. 

This is when the tide is "high" just imagine it low

Walking on Water:  As I mentioned in some previous posts, I am fortunate enough to live just a few blocks from the beach. As Iowa native Bill Bryson writes in his book The Lost Continent: Travels in Small-Town America, “When you come from the Midwest, the ocean is a thing rarely encountered.”  So I think I have my roots to thank for my great appreciation for the sea, and as you can imagine, I go to the beach quite often.  I thought I had seen it all but one morning I was shocked to discover people walking in the middle of the sea.  I promise I was not hallucinating; there is a reasonable explanation.  Every morning for about two hours or so the tide recedes.  There is a sandbank and so people will walk far into the ocean without fear of drowning or even getting wet.  From the shore it appears that these people are actually walking on water.  In fact, sometimes the tide is so low that people actually ride bikes out into the middle of the ocean.  I don’t believe even the Son of God attempted cycling on water.  

Turning Beer into Water, aka Light Beer: I’m not going to lie I am a fan of light beer.  However, Brazilian beer is just too light.  It’s not just that they have a light beer or some light beer options; all beer in Brazil is light.  I’m not saying that Brazilians are lightweights; they’re not your typical freshmen at the senior party.  Quite the contrary, the caipirinha is the national cocktail of Brazil.  They consist of cachaça (sugar cane rum), lime, and sugar and are normally served on the rocks.  They are anything but their weak watered down alcohol counterpart.  So what is with this disconnect?  Honestly, I’m not sure.  I may be missing a component here; for instance it is possible that Brazilians actually use beer to rehydrate, as an American would use water or Gatorade.  Or maybe beer is watered down so they can pace themselves and therefore party ‘til the sun comes up (which they do fairly often).  Even the way they serve beer is different.  Almost always when you order a beer from a bar or restaurant they will bring out a whole bucket filled with ice and several beers.  You drink as many beers as you want and only pay for the ones that you want.  This is a pretty smart idea actually since even if you only think you are going to have one or two beers you usually end up drinking everything in the bucket.  It’s convenient, and as we all know Americans love convenience so I may have a new business venture when I get back to the States.

       

Futevôlei: This is an incredible sport that combines soccer and volleyball; it looks exactly how it sounds.  Maybe you already know about it because apparently the sport has already made it to the U.S., in fact there is even a World Cup.  I like to pretend that the reason why I don’t know about American pop culture or recent trends is because I spend a lot of time abroad.  I’ve learned that you can only use that excuse so much.  For example, I was in Chicago this January hanging out with some friends when a song came on.  I mentioned that I know almost no new American hits after being out of the country for a year.  They informed me that the song was “Buy you a Drank” and that it has been out for 5 years.  So yeah, sometimes I’m just oblivious.  Anyway, just in case you are as clueless as I am, here’s what you need to know about Futevôlei or Footvolley.  The sport originated in Rio in the 1960s. It takes place on a sand volleyball court.  Instead of serving they kick the volleyball over the net.  Players are allowed the same amount of attempts to get the ball over the net they simply cannot use their arms or hands.  The ultimate play it seems is when a skilled player faces away from the ball then jumps in the air and kicks his leg high to connect with the ball and send it flying over the net.  You can check out the action for yourself at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OFUEDsi42qg

 Elevators: (Warning: This is by no means life-changing or even really that interesting it just struck me as different) 

Every apartment building I have been in, in Brazil (which is quite a few thanks to my search for a place to live) has 2 elevators, no more, no less.  One elevator is “social” purely for people.  The other is “service” which is to be used if you have are transporting any pets up or down, or if for example you are moving.  Also almost all elevators here have 2 doors.  They have the typical sliding doors that one would see in the U.S., but in addition, there is a door you must swing open to enter or exit the lift.  This is apparently is to prevent people from absentmindedly walking into the elevator shaft before the elevator arrives and plummeting to a rather tragic death.  As a clumsy person (I regularly stub my toe, I have been known to fall up the stairs, and once I even walked into a sliding glass door) I for one am grateful for the added measure of security.

Style: Overall, I think Brazilians are very fashionable people, which is why I was surprised to see one style trend that looks like it was plucked out of the ‘80s and then tweaked by a designer who at the time was dropping acid.  I have seen Brazilian women everywhere in Maceió wearing these crazy, neon, floral-print leggings.  I think they are especially popular at the gym and at the beach.  Some women even have matching sports bras or tank tops so they turn into just one psychedelic blob.  And in anticipation of your next question, the answer is yes, I am definitely planning on buying a pair; you know what they say, when in Maceió . . . 

Sorry that these photos aren’t the best.  It’s hard to capture these outrages leggings on camera without looking too suspicious.  Also you can see that even some men don’t escape this fashion trend.  Fortunately, I have yet to see a man wearing one of those at the gym.

A Unique St. Patty’s Day

Brazilians really know how to do a party right.  I assuming most people already know this since all over the world people associate Brazil with Carnaval.  In fact, if I had to venture a guess I would say that more people know that Brazil celebrates Carnaval than people know that they speak Portuguese and not Spanish.  I was fortunate enough to get invited to a Brazilian university graduation party last Saturday (falling on Saint Patrick’s Day).  Not sure exactly what this would entail, I started asking around.  I was told at these parties people wear prom dresses, there is an unlimited amount of free food and booze, and people dance all night.  I thought these were mere exaggerations; I assure they were not.  The simplest way I can describe a Brazilian university graduation party is a prom, Bar Mitzvah, and wedding rolled into one and, eloquently speaking, on crack.  I’ll try to paint a clearer picture.

The party I went to was thrown in honor of 20 Architecture students.  Each student got to invite 50-70 family members and friends who sat at tables adorned with pictures of the student.  All night waiters weaved through the crowds offering beer, wine, and water, as well as hors d’oeruvres, which consisted of fancy chocolates and mini fried pockets filled with anything from olives to tuna fish.  Later on in the evening an all you can eat buffet was setup for people to serve themselves.  There was also an open bar where you could get vodka with any crushed fresh fruit they had available, among other drinks.

The event was held in a chic venue decorated with old-fashioned street lamps, park benches, and much smaller versions of the iconic Christ the Redeemer statue from Rio.  And of course, there was a huge dance floor.  Throughout the night three bands and one DJ took the stage.  We showed up when things were just getting started, around 10:30, and didn’t leave until daylight, 5:30 AM.  We could have stayed longer one of the bands was still going strong and so were some people on the dance floor. 

Around midnight dancers in traditional Carnaval dress gave a show.  After they called students (individually or in small groups) on to the stage to perform a short choreographed dance on stage.  It seems every Brazilian has the art of dancing down.  I am convinced that they can do any dance, to any music, under any circumstance.  While the bands were playing I witnessed people dancing samba, forro, and what I consider Brazilian versions of the YMCA and the Hokey Pokey.  When the DJ played popular music from the U.S. and the U.K. Brazilians stood in circles and danced “Gringo” style (this was the only dance I felt confident enough to partake in).  Fulbright strongly promotes the sharing of cultures.  As far as dance goes, I think this year will be a one-way street.  What can I possibly teach these people who I must assume know everything about every type of boogie?  On second thought, I didn’t see anyone doing the “shopping cart” or the “sprinkler” so maybe I still have something to offer.